1. FIND THE RIGHT WINDOW
Every make and model of van has their own window shapes and sizes. The window size also depends on whether you’re fitting it on the left/right side, at the front, the middle or the back. Also, now is the time to consider whether you want any of your windows to open via your layout design.
We got our window from VanPimps, they had a huge selection and you can search by van type to right the right window.
2. CREATE SPARKS WITH AN ANGLE GRINDER
To fit our bonded window, we needed to cut out a section of the van’s side, and there is a nice template to follow when looking from the inside. We used our layout planner to help guide us with this measurement.
Before we cut through it, we needed to use an angle grinder to cut a channel in the support braces; otherwise, the jigsaw might have broken.
We drew straight lines across the support beams with a sharpie and ruler, then created lots of sparks as we cut the support braces away.
Be warned: Angle grinder sparks are very hot. They can easily melt through clothes, seats, glass etc…so wear goggles, gloves and move anything flammable as far away as possible. 🔥
3. HOLESAWS – WHOOP WHOOP
We initially were going to use a 10mm drill bit and drill lots of holes around the arc of the corners, which you can do if you don’t have holesaws, but then we found a pack, so yippie!
4. MAKE A BIG HOLE IN THE VAN
Since the van is not at all straight, even the window cavity cutout isn’t a straight line. 📏 We cut the bulk of the metal away but had to do a second pass with the jigsaw to cut the remainder of the metal.
One of us stayed on the inside directing whilst the other cut from the outside. In hindsight, we probably should have done this for the initial cut to save time…there’s always the next window…
5. FILE IT SMOOTH, AND RUST PROTECT
We broke out the files and sanded the sharp raw metal edges smooth. Not absolutely needed since we will cover it up and never see it, but more for peace of mind.
After filing, we generously used our trusty Hammerite paint to rust protect the raw metal edges and left it to dry for an hour.
6. ADD A RUBBER SEAL (OPTIONAL)
Our van window kit came with a rubber seal. Since this was our first window, we dutifully installed the rubber, but we don’t like the look, so we will be removing it.
It took a bit of manipulation with a rubber mallet to coerce it into the correct place around the inner metal skin, but we got there. 🔨
…oh man, this is going to be hell to remove.
8. DRY FIT THE WINDOW
Before we commit to sticking, it’s always good to double-check check you’ve got the right window…hmmm one would argue that should be done first. 🤔
Anywho, as the window was held up to the hole, on the inside we drew a pencil mark around the perimeter of the hole on the window. This tells us where not to put the primer beyond, as it would be visible from the inside.
10. APPLY THE SEALANT
The window sealant is very, very, VERY thick and gloopy stuff, and it stains everything! It was a pain to squeeze out the tube using a regular caulking gun (most professionals use an electric caulking gun, and we can see why). 😣
A tip we learned is to leave the window sealant near a radiator to warm up before squeezing it. At least now you can save your fingers the pain.
Apply the sealant to the van, on top of the layer of primer previously applied, not to the window.
The key is to get one continuous bead all the way around, with no air bubbles. It is best as you get to the end to overlap the sealant so that absolutely no water can get in.
11. OPERATION ‘STICK WINDOW’ IS A GO
Find a second human to help you lift the window into place and carefully press the window up against the van, ensuring you have even pressure and an even panel gap around the edge of the window.
We pressed the window for around 5-10 minutes to allow the sealant to stick properly and used duck tape to tape the tops of the window to the van so it didn’t slide down as the sealant sets.
Duck tape is magic and should be worshiped.